If fashion observes with a magnifying glass each movement that Miuccia Prada makes , there will be a reason. The show she presented yesterday in Milan, a collection in which she resorted to the brand’s greatest successes, has been one of the most celebrated of fashion week in the Italian city. A proposal that focused on the office look , with deconstructed skirts, padded garments and belted fitted blazers. The Prada woman in 2020 has made the work uniform the cornerstone of her wardrobe, a starting point that actually continues the trend we have seen in the previous season.
Along these lines, if trends define the tailor suit as the absolute protagonist, the tie becomes the other companion to the tailoring, along with the return through the large vest door. An accessory that we have seen in multiple Prada looks in bright colors such as pastel blue or red, and which in turn has resulted in different declines on the catwalk. Among the spring collections, Max Mara is one of the firms that experimented the most in spring 2020 with ties as part of a utility uniform accompanied by shirts and shorts that ranged from dark shades to pastel color palette. A total look that had all the potential to monopolize street style photographs and that has been evident this week with prescribers such as María Bernad , who opted for a suit with a tie in denim effect.
The inclusion of the tie among the spring collections experiments with different contexts. The work uniform, in its most literal sense, is the one that Annakiki has also opted for , with black and white looks made up of hot pants and a white shirt and black tie, in true pilot uniform style. In reality, this accessory is one of the ways that women’s clothing has had to unify the way of dressing of a women’s collective, such as the cricket sports teams of the beginning of the century. It has also been the accessory with which women have entered the men’s wardrobe in those transgressions that brought with them pioneers such as Clara Bow in the 1920s or Marlene Dietrich in the 1930s.. From the tuxedo they would go to the tailor suit without any impunity ( thanks, Yves Saint Laurent ), with motifs printed in the 70s, as a Gucci logo (spring 2020). The tie is also inherent in the preppy aesthetic that the Seven Sisters anticipated . And in this line, Thom Browne is perhaps the firm that, season after season, most advocates the classic and posh style of the universities that make up the Ivy League.
In street style, the tie is incorporated into the wardrobe in every possible way. We will not make distinctions between masculine and feminine: history has already shown that in tie matters, this debate has already been overcome (and immortal looks like Julia Roberts picking up her Golden Globe in 1990 clad in an Armani suit give good faith of it). The tailor suit is perhaps the most common bet, but we have also seen overlapping games under denim overalls and even a reinvention of the style of ‘working girl’ in which even colossal boots and shoes have a place.